Walking down “La Rambla” and finding my sweet tooth

“La Rambla” , in the heart of the City, is Barcelona’s great strolling boulevard and the centerpiece of life in this Catalan capital. You can find crowds at all hours of the day filing past vendors, food markets, cafes, and historic buildings.

Walking down the main avenue of “La Rambla”  you will find a lively sucession of newspaper kiosks, fresh flower stands (with cheaper prices than other parts of the city), bird sellers, candy stands, and crowd-friendly human statues in their costumes and face paint (my apologies that I was not able to take their pictures yet, but some of these human statues look so real and scary …).

“La Rambla” is actually composed of five smaller streets (Rambla de Canaletes, Rambla del Estudis, Rambla de Sant Josep, Rambla dels Caputxins, and Rambla de Santa Monica). Each street has its character that makes it unique and attractive in its own.

Walking down this streets you really have to watch your valuables, meaning: get your purse close to your sight and avoid distractions. Kind of hard thing to do when you have so many things that are trying to catch your attention, like those vendors who make peculiar noises like bird singing, in order for you to come closer to them.

Despite all the nice and attractive shoe and fashion stores (ok, you guessed it again, I am crazy for fashion too!) that I could also find at “La Rambla”  and the temptation of getting into the shopping mode, I was determinated to get my mission done. I was in the search of one of Barcelona’s oldest and best-known pastry and chocolate shop since 1906. This little shop on “La Rambla” with a shimmering Modernista exterior of colorful broken glazed tiles, á la Gaudí, is one of the 3 shops owned by the succesful Escribá family. A stop here was essential!

This little shop has a nice tea salon inside and an outdoor cafe as well. I got some pain du chocolat and croissants to go and definetely I will be back for more!. From bollerías (bread), artisan chocolates, seasonal pastries to wedding cakes, this patisserie is worth to be visited.

All along “La Rambla”  you will find more sweet spots where you can delight your eyes and satisfy your cravings for sweets

 

candies, nougats, candied nuts, chocolates, pastries ….

cookies, caramelized nuts …

Xocolata a la pedra (chocolate brick) is what you need to achieve a delicious, thick and rich hot chocolate with whipped cream, known as a suís (Swiss), very popular in the cafés

assortment nougats

Very close to La Rambla, we can find another jewel in the pastry shop world named: “Planelles Donat”

 

The family Planelles Donat has known to transmit during generations (open since 1850) the spirit of quality and tradition in the elaboration of its “torrons” (nougats) and small sweets based on marzipan with diverse forms and flavours called “panellets”

In addition to the assortment of delicious “torrons” and “panellets” made with pine nuts and those flavored with coffee, lemon or quince among many others, at “Planelles Donat” we can find ice creams and tiger nut milk, “Orxata”. This is a whitish milk liquid that is obtained from a tiny and very tasty tuber: the tiger nut!

Being advised by my friend Jacky, I asked specifically for the “Xixona torron”. This delicious nougat is made following the traditional production based in almonds, sugar, honey… it has an oily and granulated texture that is achieved by carefully toasting the almonds and mixing them with honey. Those of my friends addictive to the Argentinian nougat called :“Mantecol” will love this Xixona nougat.

I have to confess that after buying these sweet treats and taking them home, I literally devoured this “torron”. It was so good that I could not stop eating it.. ok, I did share some with my friend but the rest of it was ALL mine. Extra time at the gym followed….

Barcelona: a city where art, history and gastronomy shines!

Just one day before my birthday and after almost eighteen hours of traveling (considering my two stops and five hours waiting in London airport) I had arrived to Barcelona in Catalunya, Spain, where our new culinary journey begins.

When I was considering how to start this new post, one of the pictures of my own gallery from:“Mercat de La Boquería” (La Boquería food market) in “paseo de Las Ramblas” (Las Ramblas street), called out its name. What a better way to start posting about Barcelona than the epic of its culinary world!. I love visiting markets as they are a reflecion of the life of cities and towns.

In the heart of the city, the market of “La Boquería” has always aroused the admiration of visitors and artists. I heard once that this market was called “the Cathedral of the Senses” and since then I could not wait to let my senses get the whole experience.

The modern history of this market dates back to 1830s, when traders who sold in the centre of La Rambla were obligated to move to a new square that had been built where there had been the convent of the discalced Carmelites, the church of Sant Josep and the site of the convent of Jerusalem. Now, if you look closely at the picture of the sign of the Mercat, you will understand the meaning of the words: Sant Josep

Installed in simple stands in the open air and using the pile up fruit and vegetable boxes to place their scales, we are reminded that behind each piece of fruit or vegetable there is a human gesture, and effort linked to nature, the land and the whims of the weather.

It is true that Barcelona is renowned for Modernisme or Catalan Art Noviveau, a widly original style of architecture that flourished in the late 19th and earl 20th centuries. Best known are the stunning works of Antoni Gaudí and so many talented Modernista architects that had painted their mark in this city. But, Barcelona is also known for its gastronomy repertory.

With its rise as a foodie capital in the past decade, this city of Catalunya, now rivals San Sebastián as one of the top eating cities in Europe. And that, my friends, is enough reason to justify my stay in this city.

In addition to haute cuisine restaurants, pastry shops and chef-driven tapas bars by world-known Chefs and restauranters like: Ferrán and Albert Adriá, Joan Roca, Antonio Escribá, Oriol Balaguer, etc, there are scores of both old-school and innovative colmados (grocery stores), chocolatiers and wine shops.

This is not your typical fruit stand. At “Mercat de la Boquería”, my friend José, is so happy to show his colorful repertory of exotic fruits

lychee, rambutan, passion fruit, star fruit… if you can name it, you will find it at this market!

At this food stand or “puesto”, I went nuts!… look at these assortment of macadamia, walnuts, almonds…

“Torrons” (nougat), dry fruit, chocolate and more nuts!…

“Mercat de la Boquería” (Boquería Market), is Europe’s largest food market and a gastronomy paradise. This Catalan classic is the foundation of Barcelona’s fascination with food and a must see for all foodies and chefs. Nowadays, it has more than 300 stalls and several small bar/restaurants stocked with eye-popping displays of salted fish, exotic fruits, wild mushrooms (ceps and bolets), artisanal chocolates, candies, spices, nuts and much more. It is a place to see and smell an amazingly lively gastronomic scene: a colorful bounty that is a testament to the fertile region and Catalan’s desire for the freshest and tastiest foodstuffs available.

All that seeing and smelling of great food at  “La Boquería” had worked my appettite. It is time for a snack or “tapa”!

“Tapas” or “Pintxos” as it is called in The Basque country  is a way for Spaniards to avoid drinking with an empty stomach. That being said, the most common beverage consumed with tapas is probably “cerveza” or beer. You usually order it by the glass or “caña”.

These little plates like: pimientos (baked stuffed piquillo peppers), tortilla española (thick potato omelet), albóndigas (pork mini meatballs that are so tasty enough to almost convert a vegetarian like me), jamón serrano (air-dried mountain ham always accompanied by bread and sliced so thin that you can almost see through), patatas  bravas (fried potatoes smothered in piquant, bright-orange paprika-garlic sauce called aioli that have become a national standard), etc, make up the unofficial fourth meal of the day and are best enjoyed in tapas bars before 10 pm dinner hour. Yes, my beloved Americans friends, I said it: 10 pm dinner time!… My stomach clock (if there is any) is still trying to get used to this eating time habits!


A waited trip to Buenos Aires…

At JFK airport again, and this time with Buenos Aires, Argentina as my destination. Last time I was there was more than five years ago and I am so excited to come back to see this wonderful city which had been chosen for many Italians and Spaniards as their second home. With that in mind, you can imagine how rich is its culture and gastronomy. From their famous “asados con chimichurri” (barbecue) to their artisan fresh pastas, pizzas, sweet pastries and their flavorful “Spaniard paellas”, Buenos Aires has it all!

Come on, let’s go!

Arriving to Buenos Aires, I see this fantastic view from “El Obelisco” at the widest avenue from the world called “Avenida 9 de Julio” (9th of July Avenue)

At night the magic of this City shines in the busy streets. Porteños (popular name given to the Buenos Aires residents) always find time to enjoy good food with friends and family at local cafés and restaurants

One dish that it is a must to try while in Argentina is “milanesa a la napolitana” (breaded veal with cheese and tomato sauce). Argentinian meat is known for its high quality and it is used in many traditional dishes like this one

If you just want a snack with your coffee or “cortadito” these ham and cheese melted in toasted white bread called “tostados” are the best option

At the time the cravings are calling for something sweet, no problema! These “alfajores de dulce de leche” (soft cookies filled with caramel and cover with white and dark chocolate) are the solution. Better paired with a “submarino” (hot chocolate)

Best at day time “Caminito” in the neighbourhood called “La Boca” is the place to visit. This is a traditional museum street full of art, life and history. In 1926, it was the inspiration for Juan De Dios Filiberto, who composed the famous tango named after this place. It is a must visit for tourists and locals

At “La Costanera” is very tipical to find lot of food trucks or stands, “puestos de comida”, that sells from barbecue with traditional sauce called “chimichurri”, “empanadas” (meat pastry turnovers), “choripán” (sausage sandwich) and more. I loved this particular food truck because of the sign painted in front of the truck: “To God I bless to my death, Argentinian to the end”…

Another food stand by “La Costanera” in the city of Buenos Aires…

Some views from “La Costanera” by “Río de la Plata” riverside. Ideal waterfront side to go for a walk, run or bike

Following the advice of my hotel concierge I decided to visit “Estancia La Cinacina” (country house La Cinacina) in the suburbs of San Antonio de Areco to enjoy “la Fiesta Gaucha” (The gaucho party), a whole day spent away of the city life and immersed in the “gaucho culture”, with traditional dances, popular music or “folklore” (folk music) and of course, great food. First stop was at “la pulperia” (the tavern) where we got some drinks and snacks (pan con salame) before the barbecue called “Argentinian asado”

Inside “la pulpería” of “estancia La Cinacina” where they served us some refreshments

The moment I was waiting for! that bite to this “empanada” (meat turnover) was memorable

Almost lunch time… the “parrillada”  (Argentinian barbecue) is waiting for us!

steaks, blood sausages (“morcillas”), pork sausages (“chorizo”) and much more…

More meat being cooked in the Argentinian traditional way (parrillas”)

The table had been set up. It’s lunch time!

Watching the show of traditional dances while we had lunch at “La Cinacina”

El “chino y la china” dancing traditional folk dances or “folklore Argentino”

Time for the horse riding show!

So much connection and understanding between the horse and the “gaucho” that was showed during each part of the show

the gaucho with his“boleadoras”: these are used by the gauchos to bring down wayward calves. They are the gaucho equivalent of a lariat and consist of three hard balls made of stone or wood covered with leather thongs and attached to long ropes

Antique cars at “Estancia La Cinacina”

Time for a snack: “pastelitos con dulce de membrillo” (sweet fried pastry dough filled with quince paste) after the horse riding show…

I had a great time in Buenos Aires. Thanks to the wonderful staff at “El Conquistador Hotel” for their hospitality and welcome. Nos vemos pronto!

Costa Rica: a small country, rich in culture and charm

As I peek through the airplane window and see the ocean my heart is pounding. I know that now I am closer to one of my favorites countries to visit: Costa Rica. Yes, a small country always compared in size with the city of Vermont (USA) but so rich in culture, charm and nice people. The first time I visited this “Central American jewel” was almost six years ago; since then, I fall in love with its people, weather (remember that I live in New York State…) and landscapes. You should add this nice country to your wish list. Believe me when I say that you will not regret it!

Costa Rica is in the horizon!

After  my flight from New York City to San José, Costa Rica, it  was wonderful to get to my hotel: “Don Carlos”. This was my first time staying in the city and this hotel was an excellent choice.

I will give you a travel tip here that always work good for me: At the time of choosing your hotel or residence to stay for your vacation or holiday getaway, always consider the ones that are true to the traditions, culture and history of the country they belong. This is the best way to get to know its people and have the chance to be part of  their world

Pay attention to the details of the view of the first floor of “Hotel Don Carlos”. As I used to walk around the hotel my eyes were delighted because of the original art pieces that decorated each room. A whole museum inside the hotel!

This ox cart-wheel that decorated one of the hotel walls was made in 1820

So much charm in each floor of this hotel! Look at the lovely balconies… so romantic as well…

Nice jacuzzi area where I spent most of my early mornings and late nights after touring the country sides… hey, a girl has to have some luxury time too!

These lovely ladies from the “Hotel Don Carlos souvenir shop”, helped me so much in getting to know the city and they show me how to get to my tour destinations. Always ready to help me while sharing a nice cup of coffee in the mornings!

Special thanks to all the staff from “Hotel Don Carlos” that made me feel like at home during all my stay. And thank you as well for letting me use their kitchen.. In the middle of my time there I was “kitchen sick” so much that I had to ask permission to use their restaurant kitchen and let me cook for a day!

Let me introduce you to “Señor Juan” who stopped us in our way up to the mountains to see the volcano “Irazu” to take him a picture!. Que lindo!

Costa Rica has nine volcanos and this is my favorite one: the stunning “Volcán Irazú” (Irazú volcano). I love the color of the water that is achieved by the combinations of the lava and the mineral and chemicals from the soil. Words are not enough to describe the moment I first saw it. Actually, I was speechless after seeing it, really!

As we drove all the way down the mountains after our visit to the “Volcán Irazú” we were stopped by these lovely kids and their cow. A reminder to not to drive so fast in the country side …

Costa Rica is well-known for its coffee plantations. The quality of its coffee is welcomed around the world and if you look closely to the label of your coffee tin at home, you will not be surprised to find the participation of Costa Rican coffee beans in the mix. So, after visiting the volcano, I decided that it was a good time to join the Coffee Tour at “the Coffee Britt plantations”

Pedro,from “the Coffee Britt tour”, showed and explained us the early stages of the coffee production and how they would be preserved along the way

Lucía, another tour guide, explained us how the coffee beans were selected and  roasted

This tubular container shows the different types of coffee. As you can see by the difference of intensity in the colors from the labels in the container, less roasting time means a lighter coffee in flavor, aroma and taste

thank you so much to my friends at  “Coffee Britt Tour”!

After a long day of touring the country what best than a “siesta time” in this colorful hammock! Forget about water beds and all that stuff, these hammocks are the most comfortable way to sleep and rest ever! Hasta la vista amigos…